Rarity, Radical Choices and Revolutionary Design: Fine Jewelry Picks by Esther Ligthart
Tales of the Past and Future: Eggs and Whales
We must begin with a nod to history and the enduring power of the object. Following the magnificent, record-breaking sale of the crystal-and-platinum Fabergé Winter Egg (selling for over $30 million), the fascination with the jeweler's legacy is undeniable. The beautiful little Fabergé Egg pendant (€7,080) in 18kt gold, diamonds, and enamel carries on the style of the famous Imperial Eggs beautifully. While no longer connected to the original creator, the house ensures the spirit of intricate design and superb enamel work continues.
Equally compelling, though utterly contemporary, is the Francesca Villa Whales at Wonderland Ring (€9,796). Francesca Villa, who draws inspiration from her childhood and travels, has a distinctive voice in contemporary high jewelry, turning jewels into visual poems. Her work involves marrying eclectic treasures and found objects with fine materials, giving new life to forgotten items such as antique toy soldiers and vintage casino chips. This particular piece, with its hand-carved scene of a whale in rock crystal and surrounding vibrant stones, perfectly captures her penchant for narrative and whimsy. She has so many magnificent pieces, and the option to make them bespoke using your own treasured objects is what makes her work truly personal.
The Radical Choice: Modern Materials and Ethical Focus
In a bold move that speaks to the future of the industry, Annabella Chan has chosen to work exclusively with lab-grown gemstones and recycled metals. Her reasoning is clear: she aims to create beautiful jewels without the conflict, humanitarian, and untraceable provenance issues associated with mining. Her lab-grown gemstone and 18kt gold bracelet (€3,242) focuses on incredible colour and design. The debate over which option is truly greener remains complex (some reports suggest that high temperatures during creation can affect the carbon footprint), but her stance is a bold one. By using in-factory grown gemstones, the price becomes considerably more accessible, allowing her to focus on the fusion of science and art in her designs.
Alongside this modern approach, the Eera Necklace (€1,285) with pearls and enamel offers another cool, niche take on wearable luxury. The contrasting pop of the enamel clasp gives a classic pearl piece an unexpected, contemporary edge.
Playful Forms and Architectural Edge
The jewelry selection here showcases extremes of style, from ancient-inspired drama to clean, modern architecture.
There is something wonderfully playful by the very successful Bea Bongiasca, whose 9kt bracelet (€772) is a miniature fantasy. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Bea is perhaps most famous for her Baby Vine Rings, which feature vine-twirled gold and gems, blending pop culture and whimsy with Milanese chic. Her designs, handcrafted in Italy, are vibrant, colourful, and often seen on today's young pop artists, appealing to a generation that values meaning and style.
Next, the Coomi earrings (€12,593) in 20kt gold, diamond, and moonstone offer a completely different vibe: an artist's obsession with rarity. From the early days of her career, Coomi has traveled the world, seeking out and studying the histories of the finest and rarest antiquities for use in her one-of-a-kind designs. She treats every find, from ancient Roman artifacts to arrowheads, with respect, offering her collectors a piece of history and connecting worlds, both past and present.
Then there are the statement pieces: the dramatic Schiaparelli Mouth-Eyes earrings (€2,000). Schiaparelli has caught the eye of so many jewelry lovers and artists alike with their bold, surrealist, and surprising approach. Here, you pay for the design rather than precious metals, but this is the kind of high-fashion jewelry that will remain collectible over time. And if design innovation within fine jewelry is your passion, look to the remarkable work being done by Tasaki. Their approach, using Akoya pearls and gold, is innovative, clean, modern, and genuinely edgy. The Tasaki Danger Earrings (€3,920) embody this perfectly: architectural, unexpected, and a complete reimagining of the classic pearl.
